BALENCIAGA Fall 2021 Haute Couture Highlights Paris – Fashion Channel
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Demna Gvasalia’s debut with the Balenciaga 50th Couture Collection starts with a dinner jacket worn by Cristóbal, the founder, for a study of volumes in which the canons of the past and those of streetwear come together. In a perfect union of renewal and awareness
In just one show, in her first Haute Couture show, Demna Gvasalia managed to do it all over again, first by building a collection for both men and women and then by re-evaluating the volumes of the Maison’s codes, adding all her own codes developed over the years at the creative helm.
However, Cristóbal never designed men’s fashions, but had his atelier make dinner jackets for him.
From one of these, vivisectioned by the workers recruited to reconstruct the Couture ateliers in Avenue George V, the entire collection was born.
In fact, it opens with many dinner jackets for men and women (on women the trousers become long skirts) before continuing with broad-shouldered coats, overlapping padded silk capes, coconut skirts, hourglass dresses, cartoccio jackets, long trench coats transformed into evening robe manteaux, round hats designed by Philip Tracy (and the shape seems to be that of the Nesso lamp designed in 1965 by Giancarlo Mattioli for Artemide and exhibited at MoMA), trousers and jackets in denim canvas, long-haired wool furs, coats with large volumes that mimic bathrobes.
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